Annapurna Journal

Children of the Korn in Annapurna

Machapuchare towering over the valley
Updated: August 09, 2025 · by Axel

Manila → Kuala Lumpur → Kathmandu → Pokhara → Astam (Annapurna Eco-Village)

Machapuchare towering over the valley
Machapuchare towering over the valley

When It Hit Me

The moment we landed in Kathmandu, I realized: Sht, this is real.*

Not the cold — that came later. It was the smell first. A mix of incense, diesel, and sunlight bouncing off brass temple roofs. Prayer flags snapping in the wind like impatient thoughts. Jakob and Aurora went quiet — that wide-eyed kind of quiet na only happens when the world suddenly feels bigger than you thought.

I told them, “This is the roof of the world. Breathe it in.”

Sabi ko rin sa sarili ko. Kasi honestly, I needed this trip as much as they did.

Why We Were Here

This wasn’t about checking boxes sa passport. I wanted them — and me — to remember what wonder feels like when you earn it. Hindi yung instant, hindi yung click sa phone. The kind that comes from walking ‘til your legs complain, from saying Namaste to the same stranger twice kasi kilala mo na siya.

We came for the mountains. Pero maybe… also for a quieter version of ourselves.

Playing with local children in the hills
Playing with local children in the hills

Kathmandu — Noise + Grace

Patan and Durbar Square felt alive — not a museum. History here sells you spices and points you to tea.

At Swayambhunath, the Monkey Temple, prayer wheels spun like little turbines of prayer. Jakob counted the steps. Aurora haggled for bracelets — and won. A woman at a shrine taught us to bow, palms together. The lesson wasn’t religion — it was respect.

Sunset sa rooftop café: Gold light. Dust in the air. The hum of the city below. For once, tahimik kaming lahat.

Browsing shops in Kathmandu’s alleys
Browsing shops in Kathmandu’s alleys
Sunset over Kathmandu’s rooftops
Sunset over Kathmandu’s rooftops

Pokhara — The Calm Before

Pokhara is a lake cupped in quiet hands. In the morning, Machapuchare — the Fishtail — floats in the clouds like it’s deciding whether to show itself.

We sat with guides talking about treks: Poon Hill, Mohare Danda, Mardi Himal. My brain was doing dad-calculus — altitude, weather, gear, safety. The kids were joking about yaks. Ako, I was checking the sky, imagining backup plans.

Sun setting over the valley near Pokhara
Sun setting over the valley near Pokhara

Astam — Where the Mountains Kept Us

We took a jeep up winding roads to Annapurna Eco-Village. Air got cleaner. Views got bigger. Evenings: fire and stars. Mornings: rice terraces stepping into forever.

Plan was to trek from here. Pero life — and the mountains — had other ideas. Jakob got sick. Then Aurora. Nothing major, just the kind of travel flu na humbles your itinerary.

So we slowed down. Short walks instead of long climbs. Tea instead of checkpoints. Aurora learned a dance from village kids. Jakob insisted on carrying his own pack to breakfast. I let him. He found his edge. So did I.

First glimpse of the Eco-Village with mountains behind
First glimpse of the Eco-Village with mountains behind
The Annapurna Eco-Village sign and villagers
The Annapurna Eco-Village sign and villagers
Simple moments: popcorn and tea
Simple moments: popcorn and tea
Harvesting with locals at the Eco-Village
Harvesting with locals at the Eco-Village

The Trek We Didn’t Take

We could’ve gone for Poon Hill’s famous sunrise. Or Mardi Himal’s ridge. But the point was never to punish ourselves. The point was presence.

I learned adventure isn’t always vertical. Sometimes, it’s a posture.

Stepping down old stone paths
Stepping down old stone paths
A ridge leading nowhere in particular
A ridge leading nowhere in particular

What the Mountains Said

Morning light on the distant peaks
Morning light on the distant peaks

Small Scenes I’ll Keep

A friendly villager in red
A friendly villager in red
Dancing with the village children
Dancing with the village children
A puppy we met along the way
A puppy we met along the way
Holding a rhododendron bloom
Holding a rhododendron bloom

If You Go

  • Gear: Warmth + rain protection. Walang negotiation dito, lalo na with kids.
  • Routes: Poon Hill = social. Mardi Himal = quieter, steeper. Mohare Danda = in-between.
  • Altitude: Slow is fast. Cut a day if needed. Add chai if you can.
  • Astam Eco-Village: When you need to downshift. Short walks. Big views. Real people.
  • Backup Plans: Have two. The mountain gets a vote.
Warm breakfast and coffee before a trek
Warm breakfast and coffee before a trek

Gratitude

To the guides na walang pressure, only patience.

To the villagers who gave space for our clumsy Nepali.

To my kids, who turned detours into destinations.

Another kind, wise villager who welcomed us
Another kind, wise villager who welcomed us

Ending Where We Began

In Kathmandu, prayer wheels spin because someone decides to spin them. Faith isn’t automatic — it’s practiced. Same with family.

We didn’t conquer anything in Nepal. We listened. We adjusted. We chose each other. If you measure a trip by peak altitude, we failed. If you measure by what stays, we stood higher than any viewpoint.

Next time, we’ll chase the ridge. This time, the village kept us. And I’m grateful it did.

Sun sinks behind the hills as our journey ends
Sun sinks behind the hills as our journey ends